Last Black Friday, I decided to invest in a 3D printer as a creative outlet and to streamline the prototyping process for my musical and Arduino/ESP32 projects. I wanted a model that was both affordable, capable of producing high-quality prints and supported printing with different materials. After extensive research, I was drawn to the Creality K1 due to its positive reputation and active community of users who share modifications and tips.
I am not responsible for any damage caused to your printer. I do not recommend doing the same changes to your printer if you don’t feel to.
Important Note: These modifications involve potential risks, and I cannot be held responsible for any damage that may occur to your printer. Please proceed with caution and at your own risk.
P.S.: This article summarizes my experience. If you notice something wrong, please reach me out on my contacts.
1. Clean the X and Y rods
Before embarking on any calibration process, I prioritize cleaning the X and Y rods with isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth (or a paper towel). This removes any residual grease and graphite that may interfere with the smooth movement of the carriage.
Optionally, I found spreading some really fine oil, such as the valve oil for musical instruments or sewing machine mechanisms, with a paper towel helps the graphite of the bearing adhere to the rods and lubricate it as necessary.
2. Remove the springs in the toolhead
One common modification for the Creality K1 is to remove the springs located beneath the black plastic block holding the power cable. These springs are designed to work in conjunction with the graphite-impregnated brass bushing to ensure proper contact with the rod. However, in some cases, they can introduce additional binding and artifacts in the prints.
By removing the springs, you may notice improved print quality, reduced noise, and smoother movements of the toolhead.
3. remove the ptfe tube out of the chain
The stock cable chain on the Creality K1 can restrict the movement of the filament inside the PTFE tube. This restriction can lead to printing inconsistencies and additional fatigue on the extruder motor.
To address this potential issue, some users opt for a different approach: replacing the stock setup with 3d-printable cable chain mounts like these. These mounts allow the ptfe tube more freedom of movement, potentially improving extruder performance.
4. Tensioning the belts
The tightness of the belts on 3D printer plays a significant role in the quality of the prints. Loose belts can cause layer shifting and inconsistencies, while overly tight belts can put strain on the motors, idlers and pulleys, and can lead to premature wear.
Many methods exist for adjusting belt tension, including tuning them to a specific frequency using tools like hardware tension meters. However, there’s a simple and effective solution in the form of a 3D-printable tool called the Belt tension meter. This tool helps you achieve the optimal tension by measuring the vibration of the belt when plucked.
Through trial and error, I’ve found that my printer produces the best results when the needle on the meter lands one notch below the center on the gauge. However, keep in mind that the ideal tension may vary depending on your printer’s specific belt routing and frame design. There’s no “one-size-fits-all” solution.
When tightening the belts, pay close attention to the alignment of the gantry. Both edges of the X rod should touch the gantry components in the front of the printer. This ensures that the gantry is squared, which is essential for a smooth Y axis movement. A misaligned gantry can lead to various problems, including uneven prints, increased wear on the components, and potential binding.
Additionally I recommend also to print and install the Belt tensioner upgrade by Henlor to preserve the original tensioners.
5. Remove the chain
I noticed that the cable chain on the top of the toolhead was causing some vibrations noticeable from the resonance graphs.
To address this issue, I initially tried using a very small piece of paper towel as a dampener on the screw head, which helped reduce the vibrations. however, I was curious to try removing the whole chain as seen on many reddit posts.
The vibrations reduced, the graph is more similar to a steep peak, the PTFE tube has more freedom of movement and I do not longer hear any chain dragging on the printer’s frame.
Conclusion: A more refined Creality K1
I’m incredibly satisfied with the improvements I’ve made to my 3D Printer and I’m very grateful to the community. The modifications discussed in the article transformed it into a more reliable machine, also improving it’s performance.
As many of you may be thinking, did I have solved the VFA problem? Absolutely not! Every printer in the world causes Vertical Fine Artifacts in the prints. The trick is trying to soften it until is barely visible.
If you’re considering similar modifications, I highly recommend starting with the simple ones like cleaning the rods and tensioning the belts correctly. As you gain confidence, you can explore more advanced options like modifying the toolhead or installing a linear rod on the X axis, but keep in mind my golden rule: “Do not change a working system”
If this article helped, feel free to reach me out via the contacts in my homepage!